Sunday, September 7, 2014

The Final Countdown!

By the grace of God we survived the Whites and Mahoosuc's without any major injuries or mishaps. As you'll read below both places are very treacherous with hundreds of fatalities occurring over the last several decades. All I can say is that I (Mike) really miss the long switchbacked trails of the south where I never felt in danger of possibly loosing my life. It definitely adds to the adventure aspect of our journey! 

This last 250 miles or so has certainly been challenging but we're both in good health and good spirits and we only have 114 miles remaining. We've pushed our planned summit date to the 14th to give us an extra day in case the weather doesn't cooperate on Katahdin.

Having everything in place to go home and only seven days left on the trail, our biggest struggle now is to truly appreciate these last several days on the trail. It's going to be hard because believe it or not we're both excited about returning to work. We're both extremely fortunate to have have jobs we love, with great people we work with and for (I'm not just saying that because I know our bosses read the blog. :) We're also excited to return home to Nashville with all of our friends and visit with family and get Baxter and Moe back.

Hope you enjoy the post and thank you very much for the comments and interest!

Day 137 (8/21)
Starting: Garfield Ridge Shelter 1822.5
Ending: Ethan Pond Shelter 1837.0
Total: 14.5

The last file miles of the trail was flat on crushed stone. It was a nice change of pace given how slow we've been moving.

We ate lunch at an overlook where Kenny  and Tip Toe were taking a break enjoying the view. We've been flip flopping with them the last few days but this was the first opportunity we've had to have a conversation with them. It turns out Kenny was a Marine who served in Iraq during the same time I did. After sharing
war stories we discovered he was most likely four miles ahead of me during the initial assult into Baghdad. What a small world!

The shelter was alongside a beautiful lake in the woods where Jessica and I soaked our feet in for awhile. It felt great!

Dipping my feet in Ethan Pond.

Kenny and Tiptoe were staying at the same shelter and we briefly talked about our climb up toward the famed Mt. Washington tomorrow. They're both from NH and have hiked in the Whites frequently. They said the climb up is extremely difficult and we should expect it to take a long time. She also warned us that it's very easy to get lost. We're excited and anxious for the big climb up.

Below is a picture of the three mountains we climbed yesterday taken from South Twin Mt (4902 ft). Little Haystack (4800 ft), Mt Lincoln, Franconion Ridge (5089 ft) and Mt Lafayette (5291 ft).



Day 138 (8/22)
Starting: Ethan Pond Shelter 1837.0
Ending: Lake of the Clouds Hut 1851.1
Total: 14.1

We climbed the first summit of the Presidential Range this afternoon, beginning with Mt. Webster (3910 ft), then Mt Jackson (4052 ft), Mt Pierce (4312 ft), Mt Eisenhower (4582 ft), Mt Franklin (5004 ft) and finally Mt Monroe (5157 ft). We arrived at the hut unusually early, around 3:00, the climb up wasn't as bad as anticipated. 

We thought we were too late for a work for stay opportunity as three other thru hikers were already sitting inside when we arrived. Thankfully, they all planned on pushing forward that afternoon to summit Mt Wahington and drop below the tree line on the north side of the mountain to camp. Based on our speed and the distance it would be past sunset before we'd get below the tree line and find a place to camp. This wouldn't be a wise decision given the erratic and sometimes extremely dangerous weather Mt Washington experiences. So we asked the hut master if we could do a work for stay and we were lucky enough to get one. A little while later Keep Walking arrived at the hut and also got a work for stay opportunity. We ended washing dishes for about an hour for our task. This hut is the busiest of the nine huts the Appalachian Mtn Club operates given it's it's just over a mile from the peak of Mt Washington. Their were 87 guests while we there. Keep Walking had to do a Q&A with the guests that lasted almost two hours, I'm thankful we just had to wash dishes. 

We felt the work for stay was a rite of passage for thru hikers and wanted the experience but waiting until 8:30 to eat, after the guests were done, was very difficult. We're typically in our tent by 7:00 and asleep not long after that, which makes 8:30 feel more like midnight in our world.

On the climb up we had a nice overlook with views above the clouds. We decided to take a short break and watch the clouds roll by and up the side of the mountain.

Jessica watching the clouds roll by.

Looking down on the clouds.
Lake of the Clouds Hut

Jessica in the hut. Barely holding on waiting to eat.


Day 139 (8/23)
Starting: Lake of the Clouds Hut 1851.1
Ending: Pinkham Notch 1865.9
Total: 14.8

We left the hut around 6:30AM for the 1.3 mile climb to the summit of Mt. Washington. Mt Washington is the second highest peak on the AT at 6288 ft. The highest is Clingman's Dome in the Smokies at 6643 ft.

We arrived at the visitors center around 7:30. Unfortunately, they didn't open until 8:00, but we could see a grill and food inside so we decided to wait until it was open to get a second breakfast. In the meantime, we walked around and looked at the amazing views from the viewing deck. The weather was perfect, aside from a little wind, and we beat all of the tourists who take the cog railroad or drive their cars up to get the bumper sticker. We were extremely fortunate to have this mostly to ourselves. There were a few other hikers there waiting for the visitors center to open as well. 

Once 8:00 rolled around and the doors opened, we quickly learned the grill/food court didn't open until 9:00. We were a little disappointed but we were still happy to look around the center. They have a really well done exhibit that features the extreme weather on Mt. Washington. Until 2010 it held the record for the highest recorded wind gusts at 231mph. There was also a board that listed all of the casualties on the mountain, over 135 to date. 

Sign before the ascent of Mt. Washington.



Panoramic from the observation deck

Trail down Mt Madison with Mt Wahington in the back ground

We hitched into Gorham to stay at The Barn hostel and resupply. We thought we were going to stay in a hotel room tonight but every hotel was booked in both towns in each direction. Thankfully, the cashier at the visitor center was very helpful and assisted us with finding a place to stay. This was the first time in the almost five months we didn't make a reservesavation mostly because neither of us are getting cell service, even when we're in town, and we didn't expect every hotel to be booked. We ended up staying in The Barn hostel which is attached to a B&B in Gorham. We were happy we found a place to stay. There was another hiker staying there who just completed all 48 four-thousand foot peaks in NH in two weeks. A pretty impressive feat considering the amount of climbing and the incredibly rocky terrain of the climbs.


Day 140 (8/24)
Starting: Pinkham Notch 1865.9
Ending:  "Stealth" campsite near Carter Hut 1871.6
Total: 5.7

There was an all you can eat breakfast just a few blocks from the hostel we couldn't pass up. As we were eating, Cowboy and Trippy walked in. We hadn't seen them since Harper's Ferry but we've stayed in contact through texting. We knew they were close because we missed them by one day in Hanover which was the last time we heard from them. It was great catching up with them.

We climbed the Wildcat Mountain range today, one of the last major mountain ranges of the White Mountain National Forest.

View of Mt Washington, Clay, Jefferson, and Madison from the ascent up the Wildcat Mountain Range

After stopping at Carter Hut we decided to stealth camp near the hut. It was a nice camp site we shared with two south bound hikers and Medic. Medic is a Nobo who started on the same day as us  but didn't meet until late in Vermont. He's a recent Auburn grad and Alabama native so it was talking with him because it reminded us of home.

Day 141 (8/25)
Starting: "Stealth" campsite near Carter Hut 1871.6
Ending: US 2 Gorham, NH 1887.0
Total: 15.4

On top of Carter Dome (4832 ft) there were several unmarked trails that took you off the peak. Unfortunately, we didn't pay close attention to which trail to take which turned out to be a mistake. At the bottom of the descent we approached a three-way trail junction.  There was a perpendicular trail to the one we were on that headed back up to the peak. When looking at the signs it didn't make sense at all because the connecting trail went back to Carter Dome. After reading the signs and looking at the guidebook to figure why we were so confused, I looked up the trail going back to Carter Dome and saw a white blaze. There were no other blazes on the two other trails so I assumed that had to be the correct way even though my instincts knew something wasn't right. About a half mile up the very steep and rocky trail, three nobos we've been flip-flopping with for the last few days appeared hiking toward us. We immediately knew we were going the wrong way. It turns out we took a side trail off the summit. For the record Jessica didn't want to go that way but I insisted it was correct because of the Blaze. Live and learn.

We ended the day at White Mountains Lodge and Hostel. This was one of the best hostels we've stayed in. It's a restored 19th century farmhouse run by a woman whose son thru hiked in '12. It was so comfortable, it didn't feel like a hostel at all but more like we where at someone's house visiting. 


Day 142 (8/26)
Starting: US 2 Gorham, NH 1887.0
Ending:  Carlo Col Shelter 1904.0
Total: 17

Today was a big day for us because we finally crossed into Maine, our last state on the trail!! Other than this huge milestone, it was a very uneventful day of hiking.



Day 143 (8/27)
Starting: Carlo Col Shelter 1904.0
Ending: Grafton Notch 1918.1
Total: 14.1

We did what's considered either the most difficult or most fun mile of the entire trail, the Mahoosuc Notch. It's a mile long pit of huge jumbled boulders facing every direction. It's more like an obstacle course than it is a trail. There are sections you have to take your pack off to climb under boulders pressed together and other places you have to rock climb to get across. For us, the first two-thirds were fun then it became very exhausting and felt more dangerous than fun.

Pictures I found on the internet of the Notch since I put my phone in my pack because I didn't want to loose or break it.


Immediately after the Notch is Mahoosuc Arm, a 1600 ft nearly vertical climb. Needless to say, today was the most difficult day on the trail yet.

We were lucky this climb had a rebar ladder, most of them don't.

We heard Maine was a tough state due to the steep climbs but we hadn't heard about the terrain. There are huge boulders and rock slabs that require rock climbing. This is the first time on the trail our shoulders and back were sore from all of the bouldering we had to do. I love to rock climb, just not with a 40lb pack on my back.


Day 144 (8/28)
Starting: Grafton Notch 1918.1
Ending: East B Hill Rd. 1928.4
Total: 10.3

Today was much easier than yesterday. We stayed at Pine Ellis hostel and made plans to slack pack two ten mile sections to give ourselves a little break after the Mahoosucs.

We climbed Bald Pate a 3810 ft peak where the trail stays on huge rock slabs the majority of the ascent. Thankfully for us it was a beautiful day with no rain.

Bald Pate peak in the background.

Jessica on her way to the peak of Bald Pate.

We're supposed to climb this?!?! We were so thankful it didn't rain!!

Almost to the top!

Day 145 (8/29)
Starting: East B Hill Rd. 1928.4
Ending: South Arm Rd. 1938.5
Total: 10.1

We slack packed another ten miles today, the terrain was much better (less rocks) and the weather was picture perfect again. 

So perfect we finished the day in such a hurry we didn't take any pictures.

Day 146 (8/30)
Starting: South Arm Rd. 1938.5
Ending: Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to 1955.5
Total: 17

It was rather uneventful day of hiking with great weather and very nice terrain without any large climbs.

Right before the lean-to was a small sandy beach where we watched the sunset over the pond. It was geourgous.


We're going to miss moments like this when we're done.

Day 147 (8/31)
Starting: Sabbath Day Pond Lean-to 1955.5
Ending: Reddington Campsite 1972.9
Total: 17.4

We climbed Saddleback Mountain, another four thousand footer (4120 ft) The climb was gradual making it much easier than most recent climb, although it was still a long day because it rained majority of the day.

The water source was two-tenths of a mile from the campsite so I decided to filter extra water at the source so I wouldn't have have to walk back in the morning. As I was sitting there completely wiped from the day, I thought if I look as bad as I feel right now, then I must look pretty bad. So I decided to take a photo of myself to see how I looked. When I got back to camp I looked at a picture of me at the end of the day our very first day on the trail, April 7th. Jessica said the trail has added some years to me, I think I agree.

End of Day 1

End of Day 147 (smiling on the inside)

Day 148 (9/1)
Starting: Reddington Campsite 1972.9
Ending: South Branch Carrabassett River 1988.7
Total: 15.8

It was mostly overcast today with a little bit of rain in the morning. The hiking was going really well with good terrain until the last two miles of the day. The terrain went from a nice trail to huge boulders and rock slabs that were very difficult to descend. We planned on going two more miles from the bottom of the climb at the river but when we arrived at the river we found a tent spot that we couldn't pass up, because it was flat and open and we were zapped from climbing down the rocks. Spot and Blue Jay were already set up near where we decided to tent. Spot is a 63 yr old retired contractor who has hiked the trail four other times and completed three of the four hikes. Blue Jay is from Knoxville so it was fun talking with her about Tennessee.


Day 149 (9/2)
Starting: South Branch Carrabassett River 1988.7
Ending: ME 27, Stratton, ME 1997.1
Total: 8.4

We climbed the Crocker mtn range today, the second from last large mountain range in Maine. It has two peaks, South Crocker at 4040 ft and North Crocker at 4228 ft. Surprisingly, we hiked both peaks relatively quickly. When we reached the summit of North Crocker we met Red Leg, a retired National Guardsman from Campbellsville, KY. We hiked together the remaing five miles and talked about everything from Kentucky, the military, phone service and camping gear. It made the hike go by much faster and before we knew it we made it to the road. We were getting picked up by the Mountain Village Farm B&B where we planned on staying the next two nights.


We wanted to get these days posted as its been a while since our last update. We'll catch up on the remaining posts after we summit.

We're zeroing in Monson today (9/07) on the south end of the 100 Mile Wilderness. Once we get through the wilderness we'll have fourteen miles left, which includes the 5.2 mile climb up Mt Katadhin. We're excited and a little nervous for this last push. We plan to get through the wilderness in five days and summit on the 14th.

Next time you hear from us we will officially be AT thru hikers!!

Happy Trails!
Z & Gia


4 comments:

  1. Nashville (especially me) has really missed y'all! We are so happy that y'all will be returning soon and can't wait to hear all the great stories from your adventure. Luck and love to you both for the last few miles! -Jess Staton

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  2. Y'all are amazing! I've looked forward to your posts every couple weeks and can't wait to hear about all your adventures in person when you return to Nashville. If you need help with anything when y'all return just let me know. Stay strong and safe travels. Eric

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  3. Only 114 miles left! Amazing! We're excited for your return! Stay safe these last miles! Be seeing you soon!

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  4. You're life together will never be the same. Enjoy every mile. Hope to see you both soon.

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